I reached out to some wise people, and they agreed that I probably needed a new motor for my saw, or at least a rebuilt one. Great idea, but the bank account said now was not the time to spend that kind of money.
HOW TO CHANGE A BELT ON A OLD CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW UPGRADE
The new saw I had my eye on – which would be a huge upgrade – would require me to rewire the garage woodshop, and spend several times what my original saw cost on the new model. I didn’t really want to buy a new table saw, not really. It was in that condition that I limped along while I figured out what to do. Just sayin’.) If the blade didn’t turn at all, I could quickly turn the saw off, rotate the blade by hand, turn the saw back on, and it would usually start. Most of the time, the saw started, albeit slowly. I would hit the switch, and the saw would just sit there, hum, and blow the breaker.įor the uninitiated, when a major tool chooses to blow the breaker rather than starting the motor, it is a bad thing. All was well until a couple of months ago, when the saw started, uh, not starting. You will need to do the final finishing with sandpaper, scraping, planing, etc.Here’s my office desk … can you tell that I’m a reader? The table saw is for breaking down wood into the sizes you need and getting the dimensions correct. Understand that your table saw will not make a surface that is ready for finishing. You'll just need an additional step to clean up the gouge when it happens, such as giving it a few swipes with a smoothing plane or sanding it. This kind of gouge makes fine furniture impossible. That pine board should be cut in about 3-5 seconds. Unless you're cutting a very hard wood (or your blade is very dull), there's no reason to feed that slow. You seem to be running the board through your saw very slowly. These are not truly meant for fine woodworking tasks, so some level of slop is expected. Looking at your video, you have a more "contractor-grade" table saw. Also, if you have a cheap, thin blade, it could be wobbling during the cut. "Practically no runout" is not "no runout." I suspect that a little bit of runout is at work here too, in addition to what I highlighted above. The fence is parallel to the blade, and the arbor has practically no run-out. The wood could relieve some internal tension, pulling itself away from the fence and into the blade. Your hand could slip and not press the wood tight on the fence, making it jump into the blade a bit When you're running a board through your saw, there are a couple things that could happen: In my experience, this isn't really a big gouge. The blade cuts fine most of the time, but every once in a while something goes wrong and I'll get a big gouge in the wood. I could probably reduce the chance of this happening by cutting in several passes, but when I tried that before I still got the occasional gouge. Here's a video of me making the cut shown earlier, so you can see my set-up and feed rate:Īnyways, from what I can tell, the blade vibrated/wobbled a bit and that's what caused the gouge. A splitter was set-up behind the blade, and the blade I used was brand spanking new. I know the table saw is correctly aligned that's the first thing I did when I got it. That seems really extreme, especially considering how smooth and perfect the rest of the cut is. I've measured the depth of the gouge, and it's 15 thou. Here is a picture of what I mean, done on the thinner edge of a 2x4: I'm very new to table saws, and am having trouble getting a clean cut.
0 kommentar(er)
